The Bansko snow report contains just video action from my GoPro helmet cam. Saturday and today saw some icy patches and exposed areas. Morning is best with the piste getting carved up by mid afternoon.

It was cold too. Those with thin cheap gloves were paying the price with hands colder than the snow around us.

My GoPro camera has been out of action for a while. So now fixed I’m again appreciating how much fun these little cams are. If you make your own GoPro or others ski movies in Bansko, then let me know and I’ll be happy to link to them.

I’m now thinking that, whenever possible, the latest snow reports will get more of this type of stuff in.

A musical evening

I enjoyed a good night out with friends looking for live music. So we chose the Happy End live. The live band here delivered plenty of all time favourites as usual.

Kempinski’s Sing Sing piano bar was next. A more chilled atmosphere, a top trio singing the favourites. A relaxing way to round off a great day.

Both venues are popular and reservation is advisable for the best tables. Both were surprisingly free of smoke. The Happy End more youthful and at higher volumes. But it is still very popular with DJ Shark doing a fine job to make the party.

When in the Happy End it can be challenging to avert one’s gaze away from the podium dancers.

So I didn’t.

Here’s a peek at one such lady, the mighty fine Malinka, dancing in the Happy End.

All pictures here are taken by me on Saturday 14th January 2012. Come back for more video, and pictures, on both the ski conditions in Bansko and the apres ski action.

2012 has seen a big improvement in the choice, with reliable traditional places mixing well with some new places.

Tips Of The Day

• watch the live cam to check if there is a queue for the gondola before setting out.
• new online ski booking click here. Free Bansko 2012 calendar and 20% discounted included in ski hire and lessons prices. Six day lift passes and transfer s from 1 to 30+ persons too.

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Fancy Italian Restaurant next to the Kempinski

I recently reviewed some Bansko bars and restaurants which had music events that I had particularly enjoyed so far this season. Bars such as The Happy End, JJ Murphy’s first birthday party and the resident musician, “The Lizard” at Harry’s bar, have all shown what live music can bring to Bansko’s apres ski.  So what about all those mehanas, bars and takeaways that make the diverse choice that Bansko’s apres ski scene? Read on for my top 12 to see if they are yours too.

I used my facebook and twitter this morning to guage some other’s opinion. But this list is mine and is influenced, or compromised, by something that makes me prefer a bowl of gruel than suffering the “smokefest whilst you eat” experience. And whilst I’m in rant mode… I really can’t stomach some local folk band blasting out some awful loud noise. Eventually I relent;  pay them off whilst saying “no thank you, please move away”. Ok, I’m on a roll now…I never return to a place that serves up that special brew of unsmiling, unhelpful attitude garnished with a fair dose of grumpiness.

I avoid anywhere with a tout. Touts in Bansko; it makes me feel as if I’ve arrived in a tacky seaside resort — or Borovets. No thanks.

1. Peshterite (“The Caves”): Best kebabche and chips I’ve ever had in Bulgaria. Usually a tasty bob (bean soup), omelettes, salads, grills etc. All at a price I’m not allowed to mention. Smoky inside. wonderful outside in the sunshine. Located by second bridge on ski road. Toilets are to be avoided.

2. Victoria Restaurant: Since my review when it first opened, Victoria still delivers. The Pepperoni pizza still hits the spot. Ask for the chili oil and for real mozzarella cheese. All dishes good. House wine is Telish and makes for a smart choice. Usually a no smoking section — that actually works. But not always. .Generally very good service. Opposite the Kempinski.

3.  The Happy End: Okay it’s huge, but for live bands from the likes of Coco Mania, Awake, Ani Lozanova, “the Girl Band” interspersed with a respectable DJ in the distinctive form of “spike” and some dancing girls to distract it’s deservedly popular with all on Friday and Saturday nights. Can get smoky. Food not so good. Drinks (Tubourg draft) pricey. Service much improved this year. Convenient opposite the gondola lift.

JJ Murphy's, Bansko (near Lion Hotel)

4.  Harry’s Bar: Friendly upscale, usually not too smoky. Pizzas are good. Service with a smile here. Excellent cocktails. Not a budget destination. Music from “The Lizard” is always a joy. Turn right by Friendly bar.

5. JJ Murphy’s: New managers finding their feet and offering a warm welcome. A good pint of Guinness. Beer, currently Shumensko on draught, at 2.50 lv for 500 ml. The ribs and potato wedges were very tasty on my last visit. A nice place for children and parents to go for early dining. Large no smoking area makes this a top no smokers destination. Located close to the Lion Hotel.

6. The Irish Bar: Visit for friendly service from English and Bulgarian bar staff. Fair beer prices. 2012: Now Under New Management — More REPORTS please

7.  The Lion Bar: This only sneaks into my list as it is so convenient. Great for Sky football Generally too cigarette smoky for me

8.  Fancy: Italian and Pizza restaurant just up from Kempinski. Friendly service. Avoid the Thai spring rolls. Generally not too busy, so not too much of a smokefest

9.  Todeva House: a mehana and a firm favourite. See Karen’s Todeva House review. I have not been this year, but others say it still delivers value and quality.

10. Dedo Pene: a family owned and run mehana by the Church square. Serves Stolishno and a solid traditional Bansko fare. Nice for lunch for less smoking.

The Goat, Not In My Top 12: But quite acceptable

11.  The Avalon Hotel: every Thursday in ski season is curry night. Booking essential for James and Vania’s popular, and completely smoke free, curry nights. They set the no smoking standard.

10. Motikita: a popular mehana with superb starters, cabbage salad, peppers, salads all good. Respectable house wine, but a fabulous selection of top Bulgarian wines. Too much smoke at times. 200 m up from Kempinski in left in woods.

11. Karaoke Bar: Go with an open mind. Can be a lot of fun. A charitable crowd actually clapped at my appalling karaoke performance. Just watch George — the hardest working male Bulgarian I’ve seen in a bar. He can sing, operate the till and pour beer — all at the same time.

12. The Banitsa Takeaway: Not a restaurant but had to add this as the best banitsa award goes to the little takeaway just behind the theatre. A fun place to hang out for five or so minutes. People watching local life, whilst munching on homemade 1 lv (1 EUR) banitsa. The best that you will find within 50km kilometres of Bansko?

Other Receommendations:

• B4Bar:  nice music in upscale surrounds
• Brilliantines: Retro and young. Always enjoyed this one…. I think. Don’t mess with the bouncers
• Diamonds Pub:  must try again soon
• Bash Bar:  a younger instructor crowd. Loud music, fair prices
• London Pub: Pretty bar staff
• Nai Klub: Flourimont. An upscale Chalga franchise (well nothing that wrong with that). Nice sound system. Best be a mutro.
• Oxygen: There wasn’t any. Chico the DJ spins those tunes like pro. Huge loyal following and loved by many.
• Basecamp: Those that know it, love it
• Club Leglo: “Club Bed” in translation. Probably best if you are young and from Bansko
• Graphite: Nice enough music bar in town square
• Party Place: Have tried and can’t remember
• Payner Club: For the full chalga experience. Go when a topb act like Preslava, Anelia, Kamelia etc are playing. Drink a lot.
• Spirit Club: Lucky Bansko’s piano bar and disco. Nice music. Book for Monday “staff night”.
• My Way: Perun Lodge, A piano bar – all good.
• Sing Sing: Kempinski. Excellent piano bar (usually closed Monday and Tuesday)

Tip Of The Day

Date for the diary. 17th March is St Patrick’s night. So JJ Murphy’s, being an Irish bar is a good option. The Irish folk music band booked for this special evening will be well worth seeing — it’s the same band that I saw play in Sofia’s JJ Murphy’s in January and there was a memorable good atmosphere.

Your Best Bars and Restaurants

Would any of my top places features in your own list of Bansko apres ski restaurants and bars? Which ones should I try that I’ve missed out. I hear the Mexican is good near the Strazhite. please let me know what you think.

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"Annie Lozanova" Rocks In Bansko

I’ve been taking in several Bansko bars and restaurants over the last six weeks. So it was high time that I offered an updated mention of those I have particularly enjoyed. So from gentle piano playing, to hard rock and to the upscale Sing Sing piano bar… it’s time to sample what Bansko does well: bars, music and eating out.

The Song Remains The Same

Music dominates some of my top Bansko evenings. So what’s been good? Coco Mania  at the Happy End with their Amy Winehouse and Tracy Chapman style, plus an all girl band and finally, the simply stunning rockin’, Ani Lozanova, “Annie L” (see her live in video section or you tube and at www.anilozanova.com). Ani strikes you immediately with her highly toned, and super fit, 35 year old  body. With her talented band you can be guaranteed to have a night to remember.

So I’m delighted to learn that JJ Murphy’s have secured Annie L for their first birthday party on Friday 19th February. Don’t miss this one. Talking of which, many nights of the week there is live music at JJ’s; and the football matches are on the many TV screens. Now just 2.50 leva a 500ml beer.

Then there is “The Lizard” whose velvety accoustic versions of just about any song you like from favourites Oasis to Lynyrd Skynyrd classics, the Lizard must be seen. Check him out at Harry’s Bar. At the Friendly Pub you’ll usually see an acoustic duet, good to listen to, and like JJ Murphy’s, it’s a child friendly late afternoon and early evening venue.

The Lion Pub, opposite the Strazhite Hotel, is also always a popular meeting spot. The food is generally good. A pub for catching up on all the latest football results, as well as the matches themselves.

Piano Bars Come To Bansko

The best new thing to arrive in Bansko this year is the piano bar. Three of the best, Kempinsky’s “Sing Sing”, Perun Lodge’s “My Way” and Lucky Bansko’s “Spirit” all have top talent and a more upscale experience. Piano bars a firmly part of Bulgarian high end evening entertainment and those stopping by in Sofia should try Sinatra’s.

"The Lizard" at Harry's Bar

It’s difficult to predict the crowd in piano bars — as I’ve known them to be a real mix, depending on the week. But typically expect to see more couples and greater age range; more 28 to 78 than the under 21′s.

Restaurants And Smoking

The popular Victoria restaurant, opposite the Kempinski Grand Arena Hotel is always good. A pleasant interior and a large no smoking section makes this popular. For a craving for chicken wings, burgers, steaks then JJ Murphy’s, just near the Lion Hotel, has an early evening family friendly atmosphere and also a large no smoking section.

Not to be overlooked is the Kempinski Hotel. All day sandwiches in the Bella Vista Lounge bar or Vitamin Terrace are consistently good, and are not overpriced. Staying with the Kempinski, I hope to try the Sushi Bar and Teppanyaki restaurant soon, but can vouch for the Come Prima restaurant’s quality.

Mehanas

With hundreds of mehanas, of varying quality, it’s hard to recommend. Touting on the pavement or street is illegal and this year enforcement has reduced this practice. Check prices carefully. Local folk musicians frequent these restaurants playing traditional songs. These may not be to everyone’s taste, but are hugely popular.

Lunch at Dedo Pene's: chips and Stolishno dark beer

If friends want a mehana experience, I usually suggest Dedo Pene for lunch. It’s still family owned and as Kathy and John from Cyprus recently confirmed, it’s still good.

Watching your meat grilled over the fire with a smooth Stolichno is very comforting. Others to watch out for, are Baryakova, Motikita, Molerite and Banski Han. Please comment on your favourite mehanas below.

Tip Of The Day

Never venture off piste without a fully qualified guide and only with all the correct gear. Recent off piste fatalities, in high risk avalanche conditions were a sad timely warning.

Weather And Snow Forecast

Saturday 6th February will see substantial snow. Probably around 20 cm at Todorka. Sunday and Monday snow. Excellent piste conditions for next week. “POWDER TUESDAY” Again .

Subscribe for ski hire and 6 day lift pass quote form, Head Test Centre up to 20% off voucher and JJ Murphy’s FREE beer and 15% discount vouchers.

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The ski season in Bansko started on 8th December when 12,000 people were estimated to be staying in the town to celebrate “The students’ day”. The mayor, Alexander Kravarov, said the students who filled the resort came not only from all over Bulgaria, but from Greece — with at least 200 visitors from there too.

The young, and merry students gave the pubs and bars a good start of the season. Shame I could not be there to enjoy the scene! The ski season has started. Officially, it starts with a bang…

Opening Ceremony

A spectacular official opening ceremony is planned for the 12th December 2009. Snow forecasts look good enough for skiing this weekend. Temperatures suddenly dropped and rain turned into snow on the highest peaks of the Pirin, Rila and Rhodopi mountains. The organizers at Ulen promised that the artificial snow cannons will be working at full blast to make sure there are appropriate ski conditions. And you can see them hard at work on the web cams on the side bar.

And for a good reason – some of the world’s champions in skiing will come all the way to Bansko for the event. This year’s glamorous opening is having a charity cause – raising funds to support children’s winter sports with the motto “Learn to ski”.

Ski Legends Super Race

Ski legends Mark Girardelli, Pirmin Zurbgiggen, Peter Popangeloff, Bojan Krizaj, Paul Accola, Patrick Ortlieb, Peter Mueller and Hubert Strolz are competing against each other, but this time for a noble cause – raising funds for the ski and snowboard education of more Bulgarian kids. All are expected to participate in a parallel slalom competition. The “Bansko ski legend super race” starts at 12:30 on the Alberto Tomba run.

The winners will be announced at 13:30 on a special open stage on Banderishka polyana, where at 14:00 there will be a concert of Bulgarian Music Idol stars. At the same time, all the ski celebrities will give a press conference.

In the evening, the event moves to the town. In my favourite bar for live music, the Happy End,, is where along with the party, there will be a charity auction selling some of the legends’ personal ski accessories at 22:40.

Snow And Web Site Relief

I am more than sure Bansko is worth visiting this weekend. But just ask you to save your cash – book direct with the owner one of these cracking value Bansko apartments.

No need to cross fingers for the snow… and please, come and open the season with us. It’s seemed a long wait, but now white stuff has arrived and I feel good today. This improved web site lay out went live today. What a relief – it’s been tricky — more improvements next week. But I’m very glad its done. So watch the best Bansko feel good video – and find a way to get your butt on a plane, train or automobile to Bansko sometime soon.

My Top 3 Rip-Offs

Not to dampen mine, or anyone else’s enthusiasm, but i’ll have a quick reflection on my personal top three Bansko rip offs in 08/09… will they change for 09/10?… yup — its the usual trio of mehanas rip off tricks, currency exchange fiddle and taxi bandits. Will the ban against touts be enforced this year? I hope so… what’s your wish for the coming season?

Lift prices remain the same as last year. But let’s see Ulen offer some deals for off peak times and for families.

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To celebrate the superb Bansko snow conditions and the amazing snow falls in England today, I am offering a Bansko room booking SPECIAL OFFER!

Fancy a ski weekend or ski midweek? A recent visitor said she felt so much better after getting fresh air, exercise and beating those winter blues.

Imagine relaxing in your home from home after a great days out in the snow. Take a jacuzzi, sauna, steam bath.

How about a massage to relax those weary muscles?

It’s all here. And all at a price that cannot be beaten for location and space.

Fancy a meal out or cook in? You choose.

Why not enjoy a candlelit evening in with a glass of wine? Or perhaps take a rest in the afternoon, and rock to a live band at the Happy End Bar, like the one above which was playing the other night, on a Friday or Saturday night at the Happy End Bar.

Dance by the podium dancers – male versions also do their thing.

Or go check out the Snow Dogs at the Friendly Bar or watch the latest sports event on Sky at the Lion Bar and restaurant. All these are less than 5 minutes walk from the apartment building.

Or why not hit one of the many clubs such as Oxygene, Club Leglo, Graphite, Party Place, Payner in the centre of town?

Don’t ski? Then stroll around the historic town, shop or take a coffee. Or why not try ice skating at the new ice skating ring just 70 metres away?

You pay €60 per night for all of March and April for 2 bedroom apartment with large sitting room and just two minutes walk to the lift.

That’s just €30 per night per person with two people sharing per night. Offer subject to availability and will end 20th February

No need for reservation, just pay on arrival.

Includes cleaning, all bedding and towels. Apartments equipped with CD, TV and DVD’s for all the family.

Email  lance @ bansko blog dot com .

Nazdraze!

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The Happy End Bar in Bansko rocked with the sounds of awake on Friday. Click play above to hear their rendition of “Paint It Black” from the Stones.

The Happy End Bar could be an obvious place to avoid – being situated opposite the gondola. But as reported here before, it may just be the best music night out you’ll have in Bansko.

If you like rock in the form of Led Zep, Stones, Hendrix. And grunge, like Nirvana then you won’t be disappointed. Awake not only performed the well known standards, but also play their own music – which was rather good. I can see why they received the BG Radio Award (www.pacific-studio.net for all the the band’s history) and are busy touring not just Bulgaria but Europe as well.

As for the Happy End – It’s best on a Friday and Saturday night to see a live band. There are usually a number of different live acts during the ski season. So do comment if you have seen other bands that impressed.

Expect mediocre food at inflated prices. The Happy End “sache” (mixed grill) is okay and be sure to look at the weight in grammes of the food. Often one dish will serve three people.

Service can be of the non smiling variety – but our waitress was rather good this time. More reports please.

With a DJ who keeps the atmosphere and dancing going during the break, and dancers to add that extra “something” be prepared to enjoy a great night.

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