Fancy Italian Restaurant next to the Kempinski

I recently reviewed some Bansko bars and restaurants which had music events that I had particularly enjoyed so far this season. Bars such as The Happy End, JJ Murphy’s first birthday party and the resident musician, “The Lizard” at Harry’s bar, have all shown what live music can bring to Bansko’s apres ski.  So what about all those mehanas, bars and takeaways that make the diverse choice that Bansko’s apres ski scene? Read on for my top 14 to see if they are yours too.

I used my facebook and twitter this morning to guage some other’s opinion. But this list is mine and is influenced, or compromised, by something that makes me prefer a bowl of gruel than suffering the “smokefest whilst you eat” experience. And whilst I’m in rant mode… I really can’t stomach some local folk band blasting out some awful loud noise. Eventually I relent;  pay them off whilst saying “no thank you, please move away”. Ok, I’m on a roll now…I never return to a place that serves up that special brew of unsmiling, unhelpful attitude garnished with a fair dose of grumpiness.

I avoid anywhere with a tout. Touts in Bansko it makes me feel as if I’ve arrived in a tacky seaside resort — or Borovets. No thanks.

1.    Peshterite (“The Caves”): Best kebabche and chips I’ve ever had in Bulgaria. Usually a tasty bob (bean soup), omelettes, salads, grills etc. All at a price I’m not allowed to mention. Smoky inside. wonderful outside in the sunshine. Located by second bridge on ski road. Toilets are to be avoided.

2.   Victoria Restaurant: Since my review when it first opened, Victoria still delivers. The Pepperoni pizza still hits the spot. Ask for the chili oil and for real mozzarella cheese. All dishes good. House wine is Telish and makes for a smart choice. Usually a no smoking section — that actually works. But not always. .Generally very good service. Opposite the Kempinski.

3.   The Happy End: Okay it’s huge, but for live bands from the likes of Coco Mania, Awake, Ani Lozanova, “the Girl Band” interspersed with a respectable DJ in the distinctive form of “spike” and some dancing girls to distract it’s deservedly popular with all on Friday and Saturday nights. Can get smoky. Food not so good. Drinks (Tubourg draft) pricey. Service much improved this year. Convenient opposite the gondola lift.

JJ Murphy's, Bansko (near Lion Hotel)

4.   Harry’s Bar: Friendly upscale, usually not too smoky. Pizzas are good. Service with a smile here. Excellent cocktails. Not a budget destination. Music from “The Lizard” is always a joy. Turn right by Friendly bar.

5.    JJ Murphy’s: New managers finding their feet and offering a warm welcome. A good pint of Guinness. Beer, currently Shumensko on draught, at 2.50 lv for 500 ml. The ribs and potato wedges were very tasty on my last visit. A nice place for children and parents to go for early dining. Large no smoking area makes this a top no smokers destination. Located close to the Lion Hotel.

6.    The Irish Bar: Visit for friendly service from English and Bulgarian bar staff. Fair beer prices.

7.    The Lion Bar: This only sneaks into my list as it is so convenient. Great for Sky football Generally too smoky for me

8.    Fancy: Italian and Pizza restaurant just up from Kempinski. Friendly service. Avoid the Thai spring rolls. Generally not too busy, so not too much of a smokefest

9.    Todeva House: a mehana and a firm favourite. See Karen’s Todeva House review. I have not been this year, but others say it still delivers value and quality.

10.  Dedo Pene: a family owned and run mehana by the Church square. Serves Stolishno and a solid traditional Bansko fare. Nice for lunch for less smoking.

The Goat, Not In My Top 12: But quite acceptable

11.  The Avalon Hotel: every Thursday in ski season is curry night. Booking essential for James and Vania’s popular and completely smoke free curry nights. They set the no smoking standard.

10. Motikita: a popular mehana with superb starters, cabbage salad, peppers, salads all good. Respectable house wine, but a fabulous selection of top Bulgarian wines. Too much smoke at times. 200 m up from Kempinski in left in woods.

11. Karaoke Bar: Go with an open mind. Can be a lot of fun. A charitable crowd actually clapped at my appalling karaoke performance. Just watch George — the hardest working male Bulgarian I’ve seen in a bar. He can sing, operate the till and pour beer — all at the same time.

12. The Banitsa Takeaway: Not a restaurant but had to add this as the best banitsa award goes to the little takeaway just behind the theatre. A fun place to hang out for five or so minutes. People watching local life, whilst munching on homemade 1 lv (1 EUR) banitsa. The best that you will find within 50km kilometres of Bansko?

Other Receommendations:

• B4Bar:  nice music in upscale surrounds
• Brilliantines: Retro and young. Always enjoyed this one…. I think. Don’t mess with the bouncers
• Diamonds Pub:  must try again soon
• Bash Bar:  a younger instructor crowd. Loud music, fair prices
• London Pub: Pretty bar staff
• Nai Klub: Flourimont. An upscale Chalga franchise (well nothing that wrong with that). Nice sound system. Best be a mutro.
• Oxygen: There wasn’t any. Chico the DJ spins those tunes like pro. Huge loyal following and loved by many.
• Basecamp: Those that know it, love it
• Club Leglo: “Club Bed” in translation. Probably best if you are young and from Bansko
• Graphite: Nice enough music bar in town square
• Party Place: Have tried and can’t remember
• Payner Club: For the full chalga experience. Go when a topb act like Preslava, Anelia, Kamelia etc are playing. Drink a lot.
• Spirit Club: Lucky Bansko’s piano bar and disco. Nice music. Book for Monday “staff night”.
• My Way: Perun Lodge, A piano bar – all good.
• Sing Sing: Kempinski. Excellent piano bar (usually closed Monday and Tuesday)

Tip Of The Day

Date for the diary. 17th March is St Patrick’s night. So JJ Murphy’s, being an Irish bar is a good option. The Irish folk music band booked for this special evening will be well worth seeing — it’s the same band that I saw play in Sofia’s JJ Murphy’s in January and there was a memorable good atmosphere.

Your Best Bars and Restaurants

Would any of my top places features in your own list of Bansko apres ski restaurants and bars? Which ones should I try that I’ve missed out. I hear the Mexican is good near the Strazhite. please let me know what you think.

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